| How-To Rewire A Multifunction Light String |
Have you ever wanted to take the controller from a set of
multifunction lights and do something else with it? Maybe make Santa
wave, smoke puff, or wheels turn? These controllers are great for these
simple animation sequences. I would like to give credit to
Doug Lawrence
for creating the animated
graphics on this page. He created these for a discussion we had on
PlanetChristmas several years ago and they really help explain how these
controllers work.
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Here is an example that shows how a four channel controller works. You
will see there is one neutral (C) and 4 hot (1,2,3,4) wires. Each hot wire shares the neutral connection. This controller does a simple 1-2-3-4 (repeat) sequence.
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Here is the same four channel controller hooked up to only three
outlets. This configuration could be used for elves waving, bells ringing
or anything that need to move back and forth through three frames of
animation.
#1 =
arm down
#2 = arm middle
#3 = arm up
#4 = arm middle
(repeat)
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Now this is my favorite sequence. This is
a three channel controller set up to animate a smoke stack and wheels.
One of these controllers are most likely not powerful enough to power all of the wheels and smoke.
Continue reading to learn about their limitations.
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There are two major types of controllers out there.
• The first type is a single function controller that simply chases
the lights one after another and has a speed adjustment. This feature is very desirable. Without this
speed adjustment you may get the proper sequencing effect you want
but, at an inappropriate speed.
• The second type is a multifunction controller that has several
functions built in. You have to be careful with this type to make sure
it has the memory feature. A multifunction controller will power-up in
its factory default setting if it does not have memory. That
function may be a fade function or something totally unsuitable for the
effect you are trying to achieve. To determine if your controller has
the memory feature, power-up your lights and set the function switch to one of the middle
settings. Don't use the first setting on the controller for your
test as this might be the factory default setting. Unplug the power, and then
restore the power after about 15 seconds. If, when power is re-applied,
the controller returns to the same setting, you have memory and this
controller can be used for your animation.
Do you have a three or four channel controller?
• 140 light controllers have four channels with 35 lights per channel
(35+35+35+35=140).
• 150 light controllers have three channels and 50 lights per channel
(50+50+50=150).
Now that we understand how the
controllers work lets turn one into something useful. Keep in mind these
controllers have limits. These devices are not over engineered. They will do what
they are designed for well but they can not handle many more lights than what they
came with. Most are limited to 50 mini-lights per channel.
If your design demands more than this, you will need to connect the
outputs from the controller to some relays. Franklin's page at http://lightsofchristmas.com/ssrs.htm has
a solution for you.
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First we need to identify which wire is neutral
and which ones are hot. To do this you will follow the wires from the
controller out to the first four bulbs. The first bulb you get to will be
channel one. Cut the wire just before the bulb and label this wire #1. Go
to the next bulb and this wire will be channel #2. Cut this wire just
before the bulb and label this wire #2. Continue this process for channels
#3 and #4. At this point the only wire left coming out of the controller that was going to
the lights should be the neutral wire. Cut this wire a little long and label it “C” for common. Now your controller should look like the picture.
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Feed the wires into a square two
gang junction box. Use a wire clamp to secure the wires as they enter the box. This will keep the wires from pulling on the connections inside.
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You can add any type of plug ends that you want. You can even use the ends off of old
light strands. I choose
to use standard outlets because I had some extra around the shop. The
ground wire will not be hooked up on these receptacles and is not needed for mini-lights. The longer slot
on the left side is always neutral and will have silver screws on the side. The shorter slot is always hot and will have gold screws on the side.
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To make
it convenient for electricians to wire up these outlets a jumper tab is placed between
the side screws. This feeds power to the top and bottom outlet at the same
time. Since we want to control each outlet separately we will need to remove the
tab on the hot side ONLY. The tab on the neutral side can
stay because we are going to share the neutral connection. This is a very important step and must be
performed on both outlets. (only one outlet is shown here with the tab broken off.) A pair of pliers can be used to break off the tabs.
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Here is the wiring diagram. Each hot wire will go directly to one of the outlets.
The common wire will attach to the neutral side of outlet #1. Since the jumper
tabs are still on the neutral sides, the neutral connection will be carried to outlet #2
without any additional work. Now, attach a short piece of wire from outlet #2 to outlet #4
on the neutral sides. (You can use a piece of wire from the lights you cut off the controller
for this connection.) The neutral jumper tab between outlet #3 and #4 will carry the connection
up to outlet #3 to complete the circuit.
If you were using a three channel controller you would do everything the same except you would not
have a hot wire going to outlet #4.
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Here is your completed controller. You can use any type of square electrical box to hold these
components. It can be plastic or metal. Double check all of your connections before you plug it
in for the first time. If you have the wiring wrong it will usually fry the controller and you
will have to start over with a new one.
Always be careful with electricity and if you don’t feel
comfortable making these modifications then don’t! Have fun and enjoy your new controller.
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